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98 contour svt12/18/2023 ![]() Again, this is Chassis Electrical, my weak spot. However, a Master tech friend of mine, told me to inspect the TPS. If it's a bad valve body, I suspect it should improve within the week. (easy job actually.) So, I am merely trying to see if there are any differences in behavior with the Lucas in place. A bottle of this stuff brought it back and lasted long enough for the new valve body it needed. However, my brother owned an 01 Saturn SL1 and it had lost 1st all together. I purchased that snake oil "Lucas Trans Fix" before anyone says a word, I'm going to stop you now and say, I AM NOT USING THIS AS A PERMANENT SOLUTION, I am trying to diagnose. I'm beginning to suspect valve body or solenoid control module (solenoid pac?) but before spending that much money, I've devised a little test. After replacing both the TSS sensor AND the range sensor a.k.a. I know how to NOT break things, however, your concern is duly noted.ĭoes anyone have a different, experienced or otherwise more useful suggestion than this? I could have just typed "" in my browser, instead of "", had I been looking for a tow truck. I suppose what I'm saying is, while I don't know much about electrical, my 15 + yrs experience as a tech provides me with enough common sense in areas I do not fully understand, to try and test certain variables that could be causing the affliction, without causing damage. If we all did this, I'm not so sure forums like this would exist. Everyone and anyone can just take it into a shop. not that good at Chassis Elec or Transmission, which is why I posted it. engines, S&S, HVAC, Exhaust and Charging Elec. I suppose I should have mentioned that I'm ASE cert. Just don't go throwing parts at it until you know the faults etc. A good trans shop with a lot of experience on CD4E is what you need.They should be able to carry out factory operation and pressure tests. I apologize if this post is not in the right spot.ĬD4E can be a real pain to repair etc. If I fix this problem, I want to be able to contribute my findings. But those posts had no solution to offer. The first time this happened, I google searched for quite a bit of info and found a few posts that described my problem exactly. I suspect the range sensor is no good but before I throw any more money at this beast, I want to know if anyone has had this happen and if any solutions were found. Problem used to be intermittent and is now consistent.įound code for TSS (transaxle shaft speed sensor), replaced sensor and no change. When warm, O/D light will start flashing. When warm, will downshift hard when letting off the gas at speeds under 45 mph.ħ. When warm, if it does hit 2nd gear, engine will rev up between 2nd to 3rd gear.Ħ. When warm, will sometimes wind out in 1st and skip right over 2nd and into 3rd, depending on speed.ĥ. When warm, 1st gear winds out and will not shift unless you hold the accelerator pedal steady.Ĥ. When warm, there is a bit of a on acceleration from a dead stop.ģ. When cold, the transmission shifts fineĢ. And the dash is lifting up.I could have sworn I saw a thread on this site, in which someone had the same problem but now I can't find it.Īnyhow, I have a 1998 Ford Contour 2.5L and over the winter, I started experiencing problems with the transmission.ġ. There is rust in a few spots and also about 6 years ago the car was keyed from the front headlight to the rear tail light on the driver side. But if you don't have a set we can work something out. I just paid $800 for them so I'll most likely be keeping the wheels and tires. The car has my cougar wheels on it with brand new (9 miles on them ) Yokohoma yk580 tires. Quaife LSD installed by IPS Motor Sports in Columbus, Ohio So now I'm just going to go ahead and sell it or part it out. I originally planned on doing a 3L swap into it but decided against it since I'm kind of growing out of motor swaps and loud exhausts. My brothers CSVT developed a rod knock a few weeks back. ![]()
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